September 2000

Northern Pennine Club Expedition to the Picos de Europa

Background. Members of the NPC (and others) first undertook a cave diving expedition to the Picos de Europa in 1985. Since then there have been numerous expeditions, many of which concentrated on the major resurgence cave system of Cueva Culiembro in the Cares Gorge. These trips tailed off during the mid 1990s as the limits of equipment and sherpas were reached. During these years sumps in the lower ranges around the Picos were also explored, in particular the Sierras de Cuera and Cueva. In 1999, a one week, three man (or three weak men, some would say) expedition was mounted to re-establish contact with Spanish cave divers and make plans for future trips. The short time scale and several logistical problems, most notably living in a chicken coop and assistance from cardboard sherpas, resulted in no new sump being explored. No dive reports were submitted, however it was clear that further progress could be made. As a result the 2000 expedition was planned. Seven British cavers took part. They were Chris Danilewicz (CJD), Rick Stanton (RWS), Martin Holroyd (MH), Dewi Lloyd (DL), Tim Palmer (TP), Pete Hambly (PH) and Abigail Joynes (AJ). They were joined by several Spanish cavers and divers at various times during the expedition.

CUEVA CULIEMBRO, Picos de Europa, Asturias, Spain.
Culiembro was first dived by RWS in 1986. The main upstream sump divides into two routes: one active and the other (The Arched Window) static. The active route is some 180m long and surfaces beneath a 3-4m cascade. The stream rises from Sump 2 which is the start of The Square Window. Above the cascade and to the left is a dry inlet which ends at a static sump; the start of The Round Window. The Square Window was last dived by RWS, who explored Sump 3 to a depth of -25m in a 'spikey rift' in 1986. The cave was last dived in 1990 by, among others, MH who had extended The Round Window to a fourth static sump. Equipment was carried to the cave and then to the sump over two days by all members of the expedition.
6th September 2000
Divers: RWS, CJD
The aim of the dive was to check the lines in the active route (The Square Window), as far as possible. RWS dived first followed, eventually, by CJD. Both divers passed Sump 1 but by the time CJD emerged, RWS had set of into Sump 2 and beyond. CJD deposited the spare line at the start of Sump 2 before going to check the line in The Round Window. This was intact. RWS extended Sump 3 to beyond the previous limit of exploration. The divers exited separately and without incident.
8th September 2000
Divers: MH, RWS
The aim of the dive was for RWS to continue along The Square Window while MH would explore Sump 4 of The Round Window.
RWS dived using his patent re-breather system and passed Sump 3, emerging after a dive of 290m at a maximum depth of 36m. The cave passage continued with some 25m of active streamway to the foot of a 3m waterfall. RWS scaled the waterfall, at the head of which he found the start of Sump 4.
MH spent time repairing the lines in Sumps 2 and 3 of The Round Window before pushing on into Sump 4. Much time and energy was spent in avoiding the razor sharp flakes which are a common feature of this cave beyond Sump 1. MH passed a very pleasant 55m sump dipping to -9m before ascending steeply into a large chamber with a boulder slope and an inlet entering above. A steep climb up the boulder slope led to the active inlet which was followed upstream in pleasant passage to a 10m waterfall. Climbing gear would be required to enter the passage above safely. In the main chamber a phreatic tube could be seen rising steeply above, but again climbing gear would required to enter. Despite meeting an active streamway, no obvious way out could be found above or under water.

CUEVA NEGRA, Sierra de Cueva, Asturias, Spain.
11th September 2000
Divers: CJD, MH, DL
Sherpas: PH, TP
Chauffeurs: RWS, AJ
This cave had been explored previously by CJD in 1992. He had passed the terminal sump and found an estimated 8-900m of streamway (Grasscroft Road) before having to turn back due to pressure of time! CJD had also returned in 1999 and found the original line intact but replaced it with a thick line for hauling. Access to the cave was made possible by RWS transporting the entire team in his Land Rover. Two diving sets, each consisting of a 2 litre bottle and a valve, were carried to the sump. CJD dived first, followed by MH. CJD then carried MH's set back for DL. All three cavers then set off down the streamway, which had lost none of its grandeur in the intervening years. The previous limit was easily passed and the head of a 5m pitch gained. This was descended but after only a short distance a second pitch, estimated at 24m with a large ledge at about 15m, prevented further progress. In 1992, a large chamber (Number 19) had been noted off the streamway. During the return the full extent of this chamber was discovered. It forms an abandoned level and is some 200m long and 30m wide with massive stalactite draperies, following joints in the roof, and corresponding stalagmite displays. The divers returned through the sump, despite failing valves, to find the sherpas gone. The return was uneventful despite a homicidally re-rigged pitch, night, cloud, drizzle and a long, long walk.

EL HOYO LA MADRE, Picos de Europa, Asturias, Spain.
13th September 2000
Divers: MH, Jesus Fernando Manteca Fraile.
Sherpas: Los Asturianos
Hoyo la Madre had first been dived in 1985 by RWS who had passed Sump 1. In 1986, assisted by CJD, he had descended to a depth of some -20m in Sump 2, but was unable to continue due to lack of buoyancy. The nature of the carry to the entrance deterred interest in the succeeding years. In 1999, CJD had been shown a new, easy, route to the entrance. Two attempts to dive had resulted in an emptied bottle, a "forgotten" bottle and two Spanish cavers being lost in the mountains! In the intervening year, the Spanish dived Sump 2 on several occasions and reported passing three further sumps.
On this occasion MH dived with JFMF expecting a shallow dive. The Spanish sumps were found to be separated by small airbells and the passage was , in fact, the roof one large rift. This had first been explored by RWS in 1986. The high level quickly closed down. The only way on was also down. The divers descended to -25m but were unable to continue as they were only equipped with thin wet suits and no buoyancy aids.

Dani